As well known, Delhi has a long way to go to compete with Mumbai as the capital of Indian nightlife. In Delhi, it is notoriously difficult to obtain an alcohol licence and many of the swishest watering holes and nightclubs are in the five-star international hotels - with prices to match. Apart from hotels, the watering holes of Delhi are concentrated around Connaught Place, with various outposts in the more prosperous southern suburbs. Wine in Delhi is very expensive and frequently of indifferent quality - those who wish to drink would be well advised to stick to beer, spirits or cocktails.

Although clubs and bars are multiplying in Delhi, you still have to look hard for them. Whenever you feel enjoying like dancing, the best option probably is to go one of the big hotels that probably has a private club and bar. It is quite likely that you end up watching a Hindi film or traditional dance performance, finished off with a beer or lassi and an early night of sleep.

For current events and entertainment, pick up a copy of the weekly Delhi Diary or the monthly First City. Djinns located in the Hyatt Regency, Ring Road, is still a very popular disco-cum-nightclub with gut-busting music and a dance floor that looks like a meat grinder, but the fickle 'in' crowd have gravitated in the direction of lounge bars with trance music.

For music and dance performances there's almost always something on at the India International Centre (40 Max Mueller Marg, ) or the India Habitat Centre (Lodhi Road, ) where you can get to enjoy India's finest maestro performances for free. Senso Ristorante & Bar (33 Basant Lok Community Centre, Vasant Vihar; tel. 011/2615-5533 or -5534) has a style-conscious, ultra-chic bar-lounge with a vinyl bar counter, modern white chairs, green antique-style sofas, and mirrored tables. One interesting evening shows in Delhi is the sound and light show which is held at Red Fort. Choice, funky music is always playing, and there are some worthwhile parties on Saturday nights.